Cambodia Travelogue - Week 1
March 15th, 2006 by Sarin
I have been meaning to write this down for quite a while but my energy level gets to me. My 1st week back I was still resting, but after the 2nd week, my energy level is back and I feel settled back into life at home. I still conclude though, that myself and others, no visitor leaves Cambodia will ever forget it. I could write these entries 5 weeks from now and the memory will still be fresh in my mind. It was that one of a kind experience. I will be rewriting and annotating notes from my travelogue and now I get to reference them with pictures. They will be separated in 1 week or so increments. I hope you enjoy them as much as I enjoyed recalling them.
Note: There will be many times where I assume you know a bit about Cambodian history. I will be touching upon the brutal years of the Khmer Rouge regime and the autogenocide as if it is assumed knowledge. I will also write about the temples of Angkor assuming that you are aware that it is an architectural masterpiece, one of the wonders of the world, a world heritage site, and one of the greatest tourist destinations in the world. I am mentioning this because, since I am 100 percent Khmer, I can be pretty blasé about these things. In short, I am writing this in the perspective not as a tourist, but as somebody returning to a land he’s never known. After all, not everybody gets to skip through the diplomat line. However, do your own research!
Week 1
The 1st week in Cambodia had me staying at my cousin Bunthok’s house in Phnom Penh. His house is on 156th st where his wife runs a salon. I flew RT on Singapore Airlines for only $1100. I left on a Tuesday afternoon and didn’t arrive till Thursday Cambodia time. Right off the airport I was greeted with dozens of dozens of cousins, aunts, uncles. We had a feast right when got back home and I tried my hardest to blend back as if I never left. However, my efforts at broken Khmer combined with living a Western life proved to be uneffective. I was also trying desperately to fight off the major jet lag I had accrued. There were moments of excitement, culture shock, frustration and plain “ I am in another world” type of stuff. I still got to see a lot on my 1st week and it kept me busy to ignore that I was feeling like the world was spinning.
Highlights and Observations
Fly anymore east and I’m already heading back home
New England is GMT – 5 hours, while Cambodia is GMT + 7 hours…. which means I am pretty much on the other side of the world. I go anymore east and it is as if I am heading back home. I didn’t have any major problems in country except for feeling dizzy now and then. However, on the second leg of the flight to Singapore, we left around noon German time, and for the about the first 3 hours of the flight, I started to act a bit weird. Started feeling hot even though it was supposedly cold, I was sleepy, yet I was scared to sleep since every time I dozed off, I fell into a nightmare of some sort. Worst of all, I couldn’t keep still, I started getting very anxious like I was on speed or something. Somehow a little coffee woke me up, while also letting me manage to ward off the nightmares and hot sweats. I’m not exactly sure how this worked, but I heard that flying east is more taxing on the body than flying west. I think I agree.
Cleanliness of airport in Singapore and free amenities
Changi International is usually voted one of the best airports in the world, and from what I saw, it’s an airport that has more free amenities than some hotel rooms. 24 hour lounges, digital tv, free internet, there was even this little place called “The Oasis” where you can rent out a massage chair and sit and watch ESPN (of course, there are also the non massage leather lounge chairs too). The most impressive is the open air movie theater they have in the middle of the airport called the “Skyplex”. Plus, if you’re in Singapore to connect to another flight, and have time, why not take a free tour of the city.
First breath of Cambodian air, only described as hard
After getting off the airplane at Siem Reap and smelling fresh Cambodian air for the first time, I had this weird feeling that was probably more mental than anything. It was a normal hot early morning day, and Cambodia smelled like there was a forest fire burning. Then I had this mental scene of all the victims from the Cambodian auto genocide screaming for help in a fire, with their voices screaming. Of course, a fire didn’t happen, but I probably would have had that image no matter what Cambodia smells like. There are some who might say, once you’ve smelt one 3rd world country, you’ve smelt them all. They only way I can describe it is, it smells hard.
Immigration officer, corruption turns into payoff
Corruption is abundant in a lot of 3rd world countries, and I wasn’t sure how I was going to handle corruption it here considering I speak the language and stuff, but I think Cambodians view as something different. At the immigration desk, my family knew the immigration officer, and instead of him barking orders from a window, he left his desk, rushed our papers, ignored the foreigners in line and got our baggage out while we stood around to talk to family members. My mother slipped him $10 in his pocket for his hard work, which didn’t even cover the cost of a visa, as I think he took care of it himself. I guess, we were just rewarding him for doing a finer job, hence turning the system upside so he can be paid off, instead of him to corrupt.
Met family for the first time
I met about 10 or 12 family members, who even though I have trouble speaking correctly, looked like the happiest people I have seen so far. It was such confusion for me leaving the airport, dozens of people, getting used to the 3rd world, keeping an eye out for baggage, sleepy, dizzy, overwhelmed by family… really stressing for a moment.
The lanes are only painted as a suggestion
Traffic and the way locals drive in Phnom Penh is beyond me. Virtually everybody drives a motorcycle to get around, and that leads for some very interesting situations. Motos will drive wherever and whenever regardless of lane traffic or if the traffic light is green. Some will drive in the left lane if it is open, or ignoring red lights because it is possible. It’s pretty common to see a moto drive up on the left lane to take a left turn, and continue to drive into oncoming traffic until turning up on the correct lane again. One thing is for certain is that, everybody drives at the same pace, so as long as nobody speeds, things keep moving as motos can weave in and out of every situation.
I think my legs are going to bleed
Something that isn’t very new to me, but I am not very fond of, is the traditional way of eating a family meal. Meals are eaten on the floor, always on a straw mat. While this may be interesting to some foreigners, I am pretty sick of it. My legs aren’t used to it, and while I might last long on a wooden or bamboo floor, sitting on the floor of a city apartment makes me feel like my legs will bleed. So, although I am a Cambodian, I have to excuse myself and leave the table before my head bursts. Another thing I am not used to yet, is the bathroom, which is just 2 holes on the floor, one for showering, and one for pissing and you know. I’ve used a squat toilet before, but movements that require a sink… are a little bit harder.
The modernization of Phnom Penh
I came into Phnom Penh expecting a really small city where you can walk around in half an hour and there is one congregational spot. However, I don’t think there is such thing as a small city in Southeast Asia. While, technically it is small, Phnom Penh feels big when you thing the city houses 3 major rivers including the mighty Mekong. Considering it is in Southeast Asia, you can find a lot of the world’s goods here. Clothing, electronics, whether real or fake can be found for cheap and every time I was back in Phnom Penh, I was felt like I was back in touch with the world. Even fast food restuarants helped blend in the atmosphere.
Up Wat Phnom, where animals are treated respectfully
On my first day in Cambodia, at Phnom Penh, I went off on a trip to Wat Phnom, a temple on top of the only hill in the city. On this visit, I was fighting my jetlag but was excited to finally be in Cambodia. I started talking in Khmer, buying souvenirs and talking with the locals. Just 2 days ago I was trying to adjust to a thick Boston accent and now I was having no problem getting by in my native country. I also started to realize that for the rest of the trip, anybody who wasn’t family, was to treat me with respect. I liked that I can come here and feel important.
But best of all, Wat Phnom was filled with monkeys! People come by to pray, and leave a spiritual offering to cats and monkeys. It was finally good to be at a place where animals are worshipped.
English is already the second language
I was expecting that since Cambodia was ruled by France for a brief period of time, that French would be a language that I would pickup since I could read Latin letters instead of Khmer script. Well, those days are long over and anybody who’s been there knows that English is the next language next to Khmer. Every sign, government or private, in Phnom Penh, seems to be in English. There are even several newspapers written entirely in English. So much for the French.
On a developing side, teaching English is huge. Richer folks in the city send their kids off to English schools starting at Kindergarten. A presence here by the Peace Corps would be amazing and an opportunity for many English teachers who can’t realize their worth in Africa.
US currency and the liquidity of the riel
US dollars is Cambodian money. I repeat, US dollars is Cambodian money. Folks, don’t ever worry about exchanging your money once you get here. Everybody prefers the US dollar for bigger payments, and don’t ever think you will get ripped off on the exchange. I was well aware of this currency before I came here, but was not expecting ANZ Royal bank to dispense currency in US dollars only.
Strucken by poverty
Beggars is always a problem for visitors to the developing world. The situation I was confronted with was, how do I deal with begging in a country where practicing Buddhists always give to the needy? I was confronted with this problem when I headed up to Phnom Oudong, where 200+ steps were largely overshadowed by the dozens of dozens of beggars that crowd around every 6 steps. Here I am, in such great health that I could run up these stairs, yet I am humbled to walk slowly out of respect for those that haven’t eaten in days. I had not changed enough money to give to everybody, but the group I was in already had stacks of bills ready. Day 1, I was excited to be in Cambodia, Day 2, I am given a lesson on how to correctly give to the needy. However, the street children were very nice, and for only 500 riels, a young boy with a paper fan will cool you off, buy you snacks, and watch over your shoes as you enter into temples. What’s sad is that he does this probably over 50 times a day after school. And 500 riels, is only 12.5 cents.
At another time, on the drive back from Phnom Tamao, along the dirt road that connects you back to the main road, there is about 1 beggar every 50 meters. While you are driving by at 30km/h you throw out dollar bills at all the beggars hoping they have enough energy to get up and fine that bill that flew in the wind.
S-21 prison
One of my goals in visiting Cambodia was to learn more about the brutal years of Khmer Rouge rule over Cambodia. For this goal, I was willing to see (and stomach) sites and attractions that were downright depressing. On the second day, I asked to go to the Tuol Sleng museum.
The Tuol Sleng museum was formerly a high school which was converted to the S-21 prison by the Khmer Rouge regime. The prison was used to interrogate and torture their victims during the years of the Khmer Rouge genocide. It was important to go to this site first, because victims of the S-21 prison were later sent to the Killing fields of Choeng Ek to be executed.
A walk through the prison is a very somber experience. It is located in suburban Phnom Penh, and it is formerly a high school, and it still sits to this day. Tourists and locals come to visit the prison for peace and are undisturbed as they browse through prison cells that contain bed frames of those victims as they were tortured including any blood that remained, photo exhibits of the extermination, the skulls of the victims, and the various methods of torture that was imposed on its victims. A visit to this prison is not for the squeamish and had I not been with friends, I would have had a hard time.
Interesting story about this place. I went to this museum with my mother, knowing that it would more horrifying for her than it would be for me. The whole trip, she didn’t say a word. 3 weeks later, she told me a remarkable story. Once when she was in Phnom Penh captured during the civil war, she asked her commander if she could go for a walk. Her commander let her go, but told her to definitely not climb any trees around S-21 prison for fear that they and him will shoot her down for encroaching on Khmer Rouge property. As my mother was walking, she passed by a tree bearing a large fruit that was very accessible for her to reach. She said to herself, well it’s not that high up, I’ll go grab it and run. Ignoring her commander’s orders, she climbed the tree in an attempt to grab the fruit. However, her perceptions of height were easily fooled, when she looked around to find that she was indeed in good view of the S-21 prison. Luckily there were no guards in any distance to find her, but she said she was so high up she could draw a layout. Scared, my mother frantically ran down the tree. She never got her fruit.
An easy way to save money
I soon found that after the S-21 prison, I had the option of getting into museums and sites without paying a dime. How? By looking like a local. Cambodian locals get discounted or free admission to sites such as Angkor Wat, The National Museum, & the Royal Palace. Places like the S-21 prison and the Killing fields, are kept so peaceful, that nobody bothers the Cambodian locals, and I get to walk in for free.
Cambodians like to picnic
On a Sunday, I got to head to Phnom Tamao wildlife sanctuary just outside of Phnom Penh. It is a typical zoo safari of rescued animals. Everything is typical except for a small fee you can get a private of an elephant dancing. But, one thing that caught my attention is how popular picnicking is among Cambodians. Cambodians spend their weekend picnicking around various places, wats, zoos, lakefront areas, and this way of lifestyle was to be the norm throughout the length of my stay. For a small fee you pay for a raised open hut covered with reed mats. You then pay the family who is hosting you for your meal. Prices are a la carte for grilled fish, chicken, fresh seafood and all you can eat rice. And of course, every area has a hammock for napping, and by 1:30, usually everybody is asleep.
Siesta, siesta
On the topic of napping, the afternoon siesta is a big thing in a lot of countries and Cambodia is no exception. What was different was how mandatory a nap was. Most people will tell you that eating lunch and dinner makes them drowsy and that’s why they usually go light on breakfast. Since I am full blooded Cambodian, it helped explain my body’s weird sleeping habits.
Royal Palace & The Silver Pagoda / National Museum
The Royal Palace is a fine tourist attraction, most of it is off limits to visitors, however guests are allowed into the Silver Pagoda to view the Emerald Buddha and even more impressive, the life sized golden Buddha adorned 9000 diamonds (no photography allowed though). It was a good relief to recover from the sobering experience had at the S-21 prison from the day earlier. Within the pagoda itself, you are stepping on over 5000 silver tiles, while browsing through the riches of the Khmer empire. This was a celebration of the arts and for once I was enjoying the wealth and pride that comes with being Cambodian.
Among the grounds of the Silver Pagoda sits a to-scale model of Angkor Wat, with huge goldfish swimming in the moat. I was awestruck at how huge the complex could be, with myself imagining running through the complex. It was a preview of things to come and what a good preview it was.
Rock Entertainment Centre
I was asked if I wanted to sample some of the nightlife in Phnom Penh. I thought it was a good idea to go back to hanging with westerners and live a western lifestyle. But I was taken to a Khmer club called Rock Entertainment Center. I was expecting it to be some hole in the wall, but what I got was a totally opposite experience. Valet parking, dozens of door greeters, every party has a private table, and the damn club itself is the size of a high school hockey rink.
While the drink menu was big, I grunted to myself as to how I could read a menu in the dark atmosphere. Out of nowhere, a flashlight beamed from a servant behind me, and he stood there with the flashpoint pointed while I thumbed through the menu. From then, the night was all set, I had a bitch to take care of me. While the flashlight dude took and ran orders, the in house beer girls made sure I always had cold ice and beer in my glass. Every time I was running halfway, she’d come by and pour it back to full and then blend back into the darkness. I sometimes would drink it to half on purpose to see how fast she worked. She was always on the ball.
The club itself looked like it came out of Korea or something. Mind blowing sound and laser system. Live rock or pop bands, and decorated red carpet goodness. This club is something to watch for and if it plays its cards right it could be entertaining some A-list celebrities soon.
A somewhat religious experience
On a random weekday I was taken to Wat Phnom Reap for a picnic and a temple visit. I got to ride a pony around the complex for a dollar, not bad but the ride was very stiff without a saddle. However a couple hours later, I found myself at some random temple that was being guarded by…. a wolverine.
Now, I wasn’t scared by the wolverine, he was tied up and just awoken from a nap. But there was no way I was going to touch him yet. However, a monk relented and wanted to show me that he doesn’t bite. The wolverine rolled around on the floor and started nibbling on the raw flesh of the monk’s arm. He then asked me to try it out. I figured hey, this is a crazy risk but not everybody gets to play with an adult wolverine so I stuck my hand out. The wolverine grasped me with all 4 of his claws and started gnawing at my hand. His teeth were sharp and he had a great grip, but he did not penetrate my skin. It took a minute for me to pull him off of me but no blood was drawn. Later I realized that I most likely would not have let the wolverine bite me had I not been offered by the monk. It was nothing short of a religious experience.
Bargaining at Psar Thmei
Psar Thmei means “New Market” or it should just be called the central market for its huge size and central location. Supposedly its large dome that resembles a ziggurat is one of the largest in the world. The market is packed with all goods, souvenirs, clothes, jewelry, and fresh food. It was here that I got a lesson in bargaining. Earlier in the week I bought a Lonely Planet book for around $5, which I thought was good deal until I realized it was a very good fake. Today I was buying a Khmer language book written by an Englishman. I was quoted a price of $4 which I thought was good. My cousin’s wife however insisted that it was still way too expensive. I insisted I was willing to pay $4 and walk, but we didn’t walk away until we got for $2, half the original price. It a lot of not interested acting to get there though.
Later on that night, I packed my bags to head off to my mother’s hometown in Kompong Cham province. The ride was real bumpy, dusty, and after traveling on a single lane road that was bordered by both sides with water, convinced that this place was in the middle of nowhere. I did not get there until the next day…
Photo Links
- Animals in Cambodia
- Around Phnom Penh
- Phnom Penh, Cambodia
- The Royal Palace/Silver Pagoda & The National Museum
