All I want for Christmas is a Flame Retardant Ski Mask
December 31st, 2005 by Sarin
It wasn’t that long since I got a chance to leave my island and visit another (Fogo, 1 week in September), but considering how hard the first 3 months are, I felt a needed another break. To see PC buddies I haven’t seen since the summer, do something special for Christmas, and get the heck out of Calheta.
So several of us settled on 6 days in the northern islands of Santo Antao and Sao Vicente. My buddies Danielle and Brent would fly into Mindelo, Sao Vicente to meet up with Santo Antao volunteers Anna and Steve. The next day, 2 more volunteers, Jende & Tina would join us for the rest of the trip. In retrospect, it was 6 days of relaxation, partying and shooting the shit. In the meantime, I was awestruck with the European feel of Mindelo, a city in Sao Vicente, and the luscious greenery and cliff soaring drama of Santo Antao. This was my first Christmas abroad and despite being away from the states, it was good to be in hot weather, drink some beer and have a good time with my friends.
To begin, on the morning of the 23rd, I woke up early despite a late bedtime and was packed and out on the road around 9. I dropped by the transit house to store my bags and was surprised to run into my friends Allie and Catherine from Santo Antao. They were on their way to Fogo for the weekend, so I happy to see them but I had to run before their flight. Rushed off the PC office to drop off some paperwork, check my e-mail and took a bus back to the house to meet up with Danielle and leave for my flight.
Our flight to Mindelo, Sao Vicente wasn’t until 2, but we got into the airport a bit early just in case. We started criticizing how the new international airport in Praia was small considering all the time they took to make it. Before we boarded, I had a an overpriced schwarma and we hung out for a bit with volunteer Casey, who was on an errand to drop off a package for volunteer Mike from Fogo before he headed back to the states for vacation. Mike’s flight arrived, I got a chance to see how he’s doing and wished Casey and Mike a Merry Christmas before I was off for Mindelo.
Got on my flight, arrived in Mindelo an hour later and took a taxi to our meeting point. Met up with my old friends, Steve, Anna and Brent, who I haven’t seen since the summer and started swapping site stories. We fanagled a discounted price at the Residencial Sodade due to our Peace Corps Volunteer status and went out into the town to go shopping for our Christmas gifts. By some impulsion, I bought a case of beer as a gift while I still knew I had to carry the case around town.
Later in the night, we met up with Mindelo volunteer David and he showed us to a nice local Pizza place (more than 10 selections!). We hung out, ate great pizza, and I had this special appetizer called a Fataya. It looks like a real soft fried hot pocket with grilled beef and onions inside. Besides enjoying that, we all had about 3 rounds of beers to loosen us up and swapped more stories about our past 3 months.
The next day, Christmas Eve, we had an omelet by a seaside restaurant, checked out of our hotel, met up with volunteers Jende and Tina and ran into Sal volunteer Nick, who Dave was hosting for the weekend. The 8 of us had lunch at a restaurant that served us on the second floor. By some weird magic, all of us thought it felt too much like our first night in Philadelphia. I splurged and got the bariga de atum (tuna stomach), had some more beers and helped us to all the bread in the house. Really awesome lunch and good to see 3 more volunteers and shoot the shit that only PCVs can.
After lunch, we all literally ran after lunch to catch our boat to Santo Antao (it almost took off without us). On the port at the town of Porto Novo, there was a man who agreed to drive us in his new 4wd direct to Ribiera Grand with all our baggage and some stuff we grabbed out of Steve’s house. We don’t know how or why he was waiting at the port for us and we all joked around saying he was actually Jesus sent from heaven.
We had dinner that night at Anna’s house and exchanged gifts. By no accident, all the gifts were alcoholic and we soon got right to drinking them. The case of beer that I bought in Mindelo really came into play. We stayed up late chatting before settling in to watch a movie till about 4am. Around midnight we all made sure to remind ourselves that it was finally Christmas day.
Slept in and then had pancakes for breakfast. We wished each other a Merry Christmas and immediately got to drinking soon. It was the first Christmas where I was enjoying an afternoon buzz. After starting to feel tired and maybe too much drinking, we went out on the town for a walk, had burritos for dinner and watched another movie. It was a different Christmas, but at least it was warm, we partied, and had a ton of laughs.
The next day we had toast for breakfast, packed some water and took a ride down to Paul, walked around town and started on the hike through the ribiera to Passagem. Water from higher up the mountains was still flowing and we walked through flowing creeks and small waterfalls and ended our hike when we reached the other end of the road and took a hiace back to Ribiera Grand. Some of us felt tired but hungry more than anything so we went out to dinner later at Ponta do Sul. We enjoyed great eats and I don’t think I have ever seen Peace Corps volunteers eat any faster. We visited PCV Nate later on before we took off home. Back at the house, we got right to playing 13 and drinking again. Since this was our last night in Santo Antao, we have opened up to each other a great deal and enjoyed our last laughs for out last night together.
The morning of the 27th, early hiace trip to catch out a boat back to Mindelo, settled back into Residencial Sodade, had lunch at MindelHotel, and went shopping for souvenirs in the town before dark. In the meantime, we had ice cream at this Italian shop that totally spoiled us and when it got dark we went to a posh coffee bar to play cards. The place looked like it came out of NYC, not as if that is a complaint. We left later to have real dinner at the same place we were at the first night before going back to the hotel and playing cards on the rooftop. Great view of the city, could almost smell the harbor, and after playing hours of 13, felt like a good end to a nice vacation.
The last morning, we packed up and headed out of the hotel and to the airport for our 10am flight back to Praia. Said goodbye to the others and was slightly sad to be going back to site and know that festivities will soon be over. Back in Praia, I went out shopping for a Christmas gift for my host family and it was off to visit them for lunch before heading back home to Calheta. The family was glad to see me as usual, and I got a chance to meet the dad, who is home on vacation from Portugal. Headed back to site and have been just relaxing since them. Turns out, I didn’t hate Calheta as much as I said I did.
And that’s more numbers in my island count. 6 months in as a volunteer and I have seen more than half the country. 5 islands, Santiago, Brava, Fogo, Sao Vicente & Santo Antao, and only 4 left to be seen. I don’t think any other 1st year volunteer has seen as much as I have and am gracious to have the time to check them out. Looking back, the differences between the islands can be slight differences to almost feeling like you are in another country. I again start to feel like Santiago quite possibly be Cape Verde’s armpit. Many will agree that it is the dirtiest, poorest, polluted and most populated of all the islands. After seeing 4 other islands, I totally agree. Since this island is my home, I enjoy comparing it, but more importantly, like to point out how other islands are just so much better.
Take Mindelo for example, with virtually all main roads paved, and every sidewalk clean and swept. The differences between Praia and Mindelo are like night and day. Besides the aesthetics, the atmosphere and attitude of the people are completely different. Imagine to my amazement when I say my first pizza delivery moped, an Italian ice cream shop, an actual book store, plazas at every turn and my favorite, lights on the palm trees that line up the boardwalk to the port. More proof that this country is developing and soon every city in the country might take on the same appeal. It’s clear the distinction of the Portuguese influence on the town and I wish the Portuguese influence was more obvious in the southern islands. Mindelo has probably the highest living costs, which sucks if you’re living there, but great for me because I got to enjoy the best food in Africa thus far. With Mindelo’s attitude, culture and cleanliness and convenience, it is easy to get sucked into its Mediterranean-esque charm.
On Santo Antao, a lot of Cape Verdeans would say their most favorite island is Santo Antao for its sheer beauty and its dramatic landscape. This island holds around 5 of the highest points in the country and is slightly smaller than Santiago. The principal activity is hiking and it’s obvious why. Virtually year round greenery and cool temperatures make it a plus. I feel I didn’t have enough time to do more hikes, but from what I have seen, the island looks simply stunning and I wish I was placed here to say I lived in the best island for my 2 years here.
So my vacation has come to an end and so is me typing up this entry. Like every vacation, I feel refreshed and recharged with my new look on Cape Verde. I am more aware of how the country works, who its people are and what defines their culture. In many ways, I like to see the southern islands get their act together and catch up with their northern island counterparts. The difference between islands is too great and the islands need to get leveled out in order for the country to feel more like one. Good thing though, is that every month, something in Praia reminds me of its progressive state as there’s something new every time I am there. One day all of Cape Verde will be more connected, but until then, we have to figure out where our fictional North – South interstate underground highway would be most conveniently placed.
And who will be giving me a flame retardant ski mask for Christmas next year.
